Friday, December 11, 2020

Jodhpur Trouser

Jodhpur  Trouser  

These loose-fitting riding pants originated in the city Jodhpur, India around the 1890's. The jodhpur comes from an ancient style of Indian trousers called the Churidar, which are tight around the calf and baggy at the hips. In Jodhpur, India they used the same style and created a pant suitable for riding.

The Jodhpur pants or Jodhpurs, as they are commonly called in the western hemisphere, has like many classic men’s wear pieces, an equestrian root . Like many other garments they too have made the transition into menswear and have become the gold standard for traditional formal wear in India. It is also seen as an alternative (paired with the Nehru jacket) to the western tuxedo in black tie events in India. Interestingly, they have not shed their equestrian roots to make a similar transition into men’s wear in the rest of the world. Please note that I have specifically mentioned menswear as they have been successfully adapted into the women’s wear collections of most major designers around the globe. In India, the Jodhpur pants have also successfully made another transition from formal wear to informal wear and is gaining in popularity across the region. It remains to be seen whether the rest of the men’s fashion world will make use of this classic piece of clothing in the near future.

The Jodhpur pants slowly made the transition from purely utility wear to formal wear. As most men rode horses to get around it made sense to incorporate the Jodhpur pant into their dally wardrobe. While making the transition a few changes were made. First they switched the cloth to a superior cotton twill fabric and the reinforcements along the inner calf and thigh were watered down a bit and eventually disappeared altogether when cars were introduced in India and men ceased to ride to get around. The Jodhpur pants, due to their royal heritage, was mostly worn by the Royalty and Upper classes in India who were the style icons of their days. These days however they are going through a revival of sorts and most Indian gentlemen own a pair.

In India , Jodhpur pants are typically paired with the Jodhpuri coat better known as the short Nehru Jacket in the rest of the world. Usually in contrasting colors, dark jacket (usually black) with brass buttons, white pants and dress shoes. Depending on the occasion it is worn with traditional Indian headwear, however most people dispense with the headwear during non – traditional occasions.  They can also be worn with matching colored jackets. All white is a popular alternative. Like western suits the jacket and pants are now made from the same fabric and the traditional cotton can be replaced by wool or silk or any fabric of choice. Contrasting colors other than black and white are also gaining in popularity .

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